Tuesday, March 10, 2009

A FEW PRACTICAL TIPS FOR HARNESSES AND CLIMBING

Climbing harnesses are actually quite simple pieces of equipment, easy to use and quite safe if used correctly. A safety routine will help you to avoid mistakes.

Checking the buckles
Always check the buckles when you’ve put the harness on to make sure they are correctly connected and closed. Double-pass buckles are only safe if they have been doubled back. A Danger stamp on harnesses acts as a reminder. A sufficient amount of webbing must stick out the other side of the buckle. Some harnesses have a stitch in a contrasting colour showing if you have enough extra. Check adjustable leg loops to see that they are sitting correctly and that the buckles have been threaded correctly.

Tying in
Always tie yourself directly to the rope; don‘t use karabiners, which will put another element into the system. Thread the rope through both tie-in loops: on the waist band and also on the base of the leg loop. This gives redundancy and also gives a better hanging position. The belay loop (used when clipping on any abseil or belay devices) can lose strength due to abrasion and age, and should be checked regularly for wear. The harness should be replaced immediately if there is any sign of deterioration.

Sometimes the tie-in knots are clipped with a locking karabiner to the belay loop. Always use a locking karabiner with a double closure system.

Partner check
Stress, crowds and routines pose the biggest dangers for making mistakes when tying in or inserting the protection. That is why a routine partner check helps. Take half a minute to check yourself and your partner: are all buckles closed? Tied on correctly? Knots tight enough? Safety devices clipped on properly? Karabiners locked? Safe climbers always keep an eye on their partner to make sure he or she is paying attention.

Fall training
Falling has to be learned. Practice the right falling techniques in a gym or on a safe route, so that you do not have a fear of falling and will react correctly should you fall.

Preparation
For your fall training choose a quiet place with enough space for your belay partner and also good safety points. For your first attempts at a fall you need a fall friendly site: vertical or slightly overhanging without the danger of hitting anything. When falling, make sure you have enough distance from the ground and give yourself more than enough fall height.

Fall
Push yourself gently away from the wall on all fours, so that you do not slide along it, but also don’t crash into it by doing a big arc; you can practice when you are top roping (jump down with a slightly slack rope). Make sure you are in the right position: upright, tight stomach muscles, slightly bent over, legs slightly apart and towards the front, knees slightly bent, both hands holding the rope at the tie-in knot. At the moment of braking let the rope go and the impact on the wall is evenly caught on all fours.

Belay training
Fall training is also belay training for your partner: Through soft belaying he reduces the impact. He goes into a slight crouch and then stands up straight to hold the fall; heavier belay partners have to actually jump in the air. For lighter belay partners (about 20 kg+ difference) we recommend anchoring the belayer.



For more info and tips on using harnesses correctly pls contact us on zedsbunkermalta@yahoo.co.uk. We will do our best to try to asnwer any questions that you may have.

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